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The wine
There is a way in this Brunello of letting the place speak without masking the fruit: bright cherry meets grilled herbs and a note of earth. I recommend it if you like reds that are both structured and nuanced, whose finesse accompanies the meal rather than dominating it. This 2019, the first vintage of Vigna I Poggi, carries a precise expression of Sangiovese.
Poggio Antico is located in Montalcino, in Tuscany, where the estate has been working since 1976 in a spirit of precision and respect for the terroir. The vines of Vigna I Poggi rise between 550 and 570 meters above sea level. Up there, the wind sweeps through the rows and, on clear days, the Tyrrhenian Sea can be seen on the horizon. The galestro soils, a clay schist common in Tuscan landscapes, contribute to the identity of this cuvée. Classified as DOCG Brunello di Montalcino, this wine is made from Sangiovese and comes from parcels farmed organically.
The work in the cellar extends this pursuit of precision: the 14 parcels, each distinct from the others, are vinified separately. Fermentation takes place in concrete tanks, then the wine is aged in Austrian oak barrels. The final blend is then refined in a concrete tank before bottling. This succession of steps yields a deep, concentrated red whose structure remains finely drawn. To the eye, the color is red; on the nose, vibrant cherry is accompanied by grilled herbs and an earthy background. On the palate, the fruit remains lively and engaging. The fine tannins have a velvety softness, while the body, pleasantly full, keeps its balance. The finish is long and persistent, with a warmth that extends the tasting.
I would serve this Brunello with a meal where you can linger: a roasted or braised meat, for example, whose flavors respond to the depth of the wine without covering its notes of cherry and earth. It will also have its place at a festive dinner or a toast you want to make memorable. Open it when you can give it time to unfold in the glass, and treat the meal as an occasion to follow its nuances, from the first sip to its persistent finish. If you are looking for a Sangiovese from Montalcino that combines lively fruit, velvety tannins and the imprint of its vineyard, Vigna I Poggi 2019 deserves a place at your table.
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