A Ciliegiolo tasting in Sorano: the rebel wine no one knows yet

Absolutely! The Ciliegiolo from Sorano, in particular the one produced on volcanic tuff soils, is far from the image of a light wine that its cherry-evoking name might suggest. If you are used to great Tuscan crus and appreciate full-bodied red wines, the Ciliegiolo from Sorano has a good chance of pleasantly surprising you with its unique character and depth. This is not a wine that seeks to please everyone; it has a strong, almost rebellious personality.

The key to its power lies in the volcanic terroir of Sorano. The tuff, a porous rock rich in minerals, gives the wine a stony minerality and a well-present but elegant tannic structure. You will find intense notes of black cherry, spices like pepper and clove, and sometimes even hints of tobacco or wet earth for the cuvées aged in terracotta jars. The San Lorenzo cuvée from the Sassotondo winery is an excellent example of this power and aging capacity, competing in complexity and elegance with better-known wines. This is not an insignificant everyday drinking wine; it demands a palate ready to face an elegant rusticity and an uncompromising aromatic intensity. Let yourself be tempted by this experience that shakes up the rules and will show you another facet of Tuscany’s wine richness. If you are curious about lesser-known Tuscan wines, you might also be interested in the Morellino di Scansano.

The most striking particularity of the terroir of Sorano, and of its neighbor Pitigliano, undeniably lies in its geology: the volcanic tuff. This rock, formed from the ashes of ancient eruptions, is the secret behind the unique identity of the local Ciliegiolo. The tuff has exceptional porosity, acting like a true sponge. During the winter and spring months, it stores rainwater deep down, to then return it gradually to the vines during Maremma’s long, hot, dry summers. It is a natural air conditioner for the roots, ensuring constant hydration and avoiding the water stress that could compromise the quality of the grapes.

This geological composition is directly reflected in the wine. The soil, rich in volcanic minerals, brings a salty minerality and a stony tension to the Ciliegiolo, characteristics found in every sip. Instead of a fruity dominance, it is this mineral, almost « rocky, » sensation that prevails and defines the wine. Moreover, the tuff offers excellent drainage, preventing stagnant moisture, which is crucial for Ciliegiolo, a grape variety that fears excess water. This combination of thermal regulation and mineral richness gives the Ciliegiolo from Sorano a remarkable depth, complexity, and aging capacity, clearly distinguishing it from Ciliegiolo produced on other types of soils. It is a wine that tells the story of its volcanic soil, offering a tasting experience that goes well beyond simple fruit.

The use of terracotta jars for winemaking in Sorano is not so much a new trend as a return to ancestral methods, reinterpreted with modern awareness. This technique, although very ancient and linked to Mediterranean wine traditions, is experiencing a revival of interest among winemakers who seek to express the purity of the fruit and the terroir without artifice. In Sorano, and particularly at the Sassotondo winery, the use of these jars is fundamental for the Ciliegiolo.

The impact on the taste of Ciliegiolo is significant and distinctive. Unlike oak barrels that bring woody, vanilla, or toasty aromas, terracotta is a neutral material. It imparts no off-taste to the wine, allowing the fruit of the Ciliegiolo to express itself in its simplest and most sincere form. This means you will taste the black cherry, the spices, and above all the minerality of the volcanic tuff without any interference. In addition, terracotta is slightly porous, which allows a natural and very gentle micro-oxygenation of the wine. This subtle oxygenation has the effect of polishing the tannins, making them silkier, while preserving the freshness and brightness of the fruit. The result is a wine with an incredible, almost tactile texture, where aromatic purity and mineral structure are brought to the fore. It is a method that deeply respects the terroir and offers a unique tasting experience, far from wines marked by woody aging. This is what you will find in particular in the Poggio Pinzo cuvée from Sassotondo.

To enhance the Ciliegiolo from Sorano, it is essential to forget the classic pairings and turn to the rustic and flavorful cuisine of Tuscia and Maremma. This wine, with its tannic structure, its minerality, and its notes of black cherry and spices, does not call for a huge Florentine steak, but rather for bold and authentic flavors that will complement it without overwhelming it. Think of dishes with character, but not excessively fatty.

I suggest you try local specialties like the sfratto, a savory pastry typical of Pitigliano, often made with nuts and honey, which can create an interesting contrast. Very aged sheep’s milk cheeses, such as a good Maremma Pecorino, are also an excellent choice. The acidity and minerality of the Ciliegiolo will pair wonderfully with the fattiness and intensity of the cheese, cleansing the palate with every sip. You can also consider game-based dishes, such as wild boar maremmana style, but in a version less rich in sauce. For total immersion, why not organize a picnic in Maremma with local artisanal charcuterie, grilled vegetables, and Tuscan bread? The Lady Marmalade, the characterful rosé from Sassotondo, is also an excellent companion for Maremma charcuterie. The goal is to pair the wine with flavors that respect its authenticity and its deep connection to the terroir. Avoid dishes that are too heavy or too refined, which could mask its wild and elegant personality.

Absolutely! A visit to the cellars of Sorano, dug directly into the volcanic tuff, is a memorable and very authentic experience. However, a few practical tips will be useful to make the most of it. First of all, an essential point: the cellars of Sorano, like those of the Sassotondo winery, are carved into the rock and enjoy constant natural coolness, even in the height of summer. It can be 35°C outside, but the temperature inside the cellars remains pleasantly cool, often around 15-18°C. My advice from Sandro is therefore to always bring a sweater or a jacket, even if the sun is beating down outside. You won’t regret it!

Next, regarding reservations, it is crucial to always book your visit in advance. The winemakers of this region are artisans, often very busy in their vineyards or with production. They are not always behind a reception counter. A simple phone call or an email a few days before is generally enough to organize your visit and make sure someone will be available to welcome you and show you their treasures. The contact details of Sassotondo are easy to find online. Finally, after your tasting in Sorano, I highly recommend extending your exploration by visiting the neighboring town of Pitigliano. These two towns, perched on tuff outcrops, share a fascinating history and volcanic landscape, offering a natural and visually spectacular continuation to your wine experience.