Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino Cosimo 2019

Palazzo Cosimo 2019, the Brunello of roots

In this Brunello di Montalcino, the name Cosimo honors the grandfather who chose to make Montalcino his family's home. I also note a careful approach to the vineyard: the Sangiovese is farmed organically, and the wine then takes its time maturing for a long period in barrels. If you're looking for a bottle where family history meets a strong sense of aging, this 2019 deserves your attention.

Palazzo, the hills of Montalcino and Sangiovese

The story of Palazzo begins with Cosimo Loia and Antonietta Palazzo, originally from Benevento. After achieving success as restaurateurs in England, they dreamed of returning to Italy and spending their retirement there. In the 1980s they discovered a twelve-hectare estate in Montalcino, in central Tuscany. The place, not yet widely renowned, nevertheless seemed promising to them for viticulture. Forty years later, the third generation continues their work. The wine bears Cosimo's first name in tribute to the founder, and tells this family connection without detaching it from its place of origin.

Palazzo Brunello di Montalcino Cosimo 2019 falls under the DOCG Brunello di Montalcino appellation. It is made from Sangiovese, also called Brunello, from vines planted in 1985. The soils are described as arid and stony, with limestone, sand, gravel and rock. The grapes are harvested by hand at maturity. In the cellar, fermentation takes place in concrete tanks, without added yeasts, and maceration lasts 24 days with gentle pump-overs. The wine then ages 40 months in Slavonian oak casks of various sizes, between 5 and 10 hectoliters, and rests a further six to eight months in bottle before release.

The color is that of a red wine, but the available notes do not specify its hue or intensity. They also do not describe any particular aromas: I prefer not to invent a nose of fruit, spice or undergrowth. The profile provided places it, however, on the spicy side, with a score of 7 out of 9, and marked by barrel aging, also at 7 out of 9. Its body is rated 8 out of 9. These markers sketch a structured Brunello, with the wood clearly present, rather than a light red to drink without thinking.

At the table, with dishes of character

I would serve it with red meat or game, pairings suggested for this wine and in keeping with its body. It can also accompany a plate of cured meats or aged cheeses, for a simpler tasting where you take the time to let the wine open up. At the table, give it some room and choose fairly bold flavors to match its aging. If you want to taste a Brunello tied to a family story and a long passage in oak, this Palazzo Cosimo 2019 is a fine occasion to take your time.