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The wine
I take away from this 2021 Brunello the dialogue between the Sangiovese and a long aging, first in wood, then in bottle: the wine takes its time to settle before joining the table. In Montalcino, Cava d’Onice produces a cuvée that embraces a bold profile, where the influence of the barrel and a spicy orientation are clearly present.
Cava d’Onice is the project of Simone Nannetti, who created her first wine in 2005 while working at Conti Constanti. Her « vinosofia », a word blending wine and philosophy, refers to an approach attentive to the cultural, historical, social and sensory dimensions of wine. The estate now spans four hectares spread across four vineyards in Montalcino, Tuscany. This cuvée is a Brunello di Montalcino DOCG made from Sangiovese, the region's native grape variety.
Grapes are hand-harvested at maturity, then sorted and destemmed. Fermentation begins in cement and stainless steel tanks and lasts ten days; maceration then continues for three to four weeks. The wine ages three years in Slavonian oak and French oak barrels, with a capacity of 25 to 35 hectoliters, then spends twelve months in bottle before release. On the palate, the available information points to a red wine with a pronounced body and a noticeable presence of wood. Its profile leans more toward spice than fruit, though no precise aromas are specified: it's better to let the glass reveal its nuances rather than attributing ready-made notes to it.
I would serve it with red meat or game, two pairings suited to its assertive structure and its aging. Aged cheeses can also have their place, especially if you want to extend the tasting after the meal. To give it time to open, uncork the bottle shortly before sitting down to eat and sip it slowly through dinner. It's a choice to keep for generous cooking, when the wine can accompany the dish rather than being reduced to a simple aperitif glass. If you enjoy Brunello where the wood plays a noticeable role and where the Sangiovese expresses itself within a framework of long maturation, the Sensis 2021 deserves a place in your selection.
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