Cava d'Onice Colombaio Brunello di Montalcino 2020

Colombaio 2020, a Brunello born from a small plot

I'm happy to dwell on this Brunello di Montalcino for its human-scale story: Simone Nannetti's project grew out of a plot of less than half a hectare, in the heart of a territory famous for Sangiovese. The 2020 vintage carries the signature of the Colombaio cru and a long aging, which gives this wine a strong presence. If you like reds where the fruit clearly meets the wood and spice, it deserves a place at your table.

Colombaio, a Brunello plot at 450 meters

Cava d'Onice is Simone Nannetti's project, launched with his father after the discovery of this small quality vineyard. The estate seeks to express a distinct identity for Sangiovese within the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG appellation. Colombaio comes from this cru located at 450 meters above sea level. Its vines, 30 years old, grow on soil of medium texture, rich in clay and calcium. These elements outline the precise context of this wine, without the need to attribute characteristics that the sources do not describe.

Vineyard management follows traditional practices, and the grapes are hand-harvested at what is judged the optimal moment of ripeness. In the cellar, they are sorted, destemmed, then gently pressed. Fermentation takes place in cement tanks, at constant temperature, for about ten days; maceration then lasts between 21 and 28 days. After malolactic fermentation, the wine spends three years in French oak barrels of 500 to 1,500 liters, then twelve months in bottle before release. This aging period is one of the essential reference points for understanding the style of Colombaio 2020.

The sheet presents it as a red aged in wood, rather full-bodied, with a pronounced spicy dominance and a marked cask influence. It provides no list of aromas nor a detailed description of the color, so I prefer not to invent fruits, flowers or nuances on the palate. We can nonetheless retain the announced profile, both structured by the aging and carried by the Sangiovese. The 2020 vintage has also received a score of 93/100 from James Suckling. The stated production, around 2,000 bottles, underlines the limited nature of this cuvée, though that alone is not enough to define its interest.

At the table, with generous flavors

I would serve it with red meat, game or cured meats, pairings suggested for this wine and consistent with its body and aging. For a tasting, take the time to let it express itself in the glass and observe how the Sangiovese shows after its three years in barrel and its one year in bottle. It is a choice to consider for a meal where the wine accompanies the dish without taking a back seat. If you want to explore Montalcino through a small plot and careful aging, Colombaio 2020 offers a precise and sincere route.