Poggio Landi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2017

Poggio Landi Riserva 2017, the patient Sangiovese

This Brunello has an appealing balance: the depth of dark fruit, violet, and nuances of leather and licorice, then a freshness that lightens the whole. The Poggio Landi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2017 takes its time maturing in cask; I would choose it for an attentive tasting, where you can follow its aromas all the way to its balsamic finish.

Montalcino, the Sangiovese and the time of the Riserva

This red wine is made from Sangiovese and carries the DOCG Brunello di Montalcino Riserva appellation. It comes from Montalcino, in Tuscany, a region whose soils are known to be very diverse. Poggio Landi grows Sangiovese across several sectors of the commune; the estate has 33 hectares of this grape variety, notably in the areas of Montosoli, San Paolo, La Crociona and Torrenieri. The soils there are described as predominantly clay, although the variety of Montalcino's terroirs invites us not to reduce the wine's identity to a single composition.

The estate belongs to the wine group of Alejandro Bulgheroni, present in several countries and also established in Tuscany out of his interest in the region's red wines. For this 2017 Riserva, the Sangiovese is aged 48 months in French oak barriques, that is 18 months more than the minimum required for the Brunello Riserva appellation. Organic cultivation is also among the announced characteristics. In the glass, the color is red. The nose unfolds around blackcurrant and blueberry, joined by violet; leather and licorice add deeper accents. On the palate, the fruit remains juicy, balanced by an impression of freshness. Fine tannins accompany an elegant finish, where balsamic notes appear. The tasting thus reveals a wine of relief, without the wood overshadowing the fruit.

At the table, a bottle to take your time over

I would serve this Brunello with a dish of the same weight as it: a braised meat, a beef roast or long-cooked mushrooms. These pairings leave room for the dark fruit, while the nuances of licorice and leather find an echo in the deep flavors of the dish. You can also reserve it for a festive meal where you prefer to savor slowly rather than multiply the bottles. Open it a little ahead of time and let it evolve in the glass: its aromas of violet, fruit and balsamic deserve that you give them time. It is a fine way to explore the character of Montalcino's Sangiovese, in a Riserva version patiently aged.