Bibi Graetz Testamatta Bianco 2020

Bibi Graetz Testamatta Bianco 2020, the Inzolia of Giglio

I recommend this Tuscan white for its personality, which owes as much to its origin as to its aging: an Inzolia from an old plot on the island of Giglio, farmed organically, then aged twelve months in oak barrels. The Testamatta Bianco 2020 thus combines a broad body with a mineral backbone and lively acidity, without hiding the mark of the wood.

Giglio, Serrone and the story of a grape variety

Classified IGT Toscana, this wine comes from Serrone, a unique vineyard located in the southeastern part of the island of Giglio, off the Tuscan coast. The vines grow on terraces between 60 and 150 meters above sea level; they grow in poor granitic soil and are more than a hundred years old. Inzolia, also called Ansonica, is a traditional white grape variety of the island. The choice of this singular plot sets the white apart from the red Testamatta, blended from several named sites.

The story of the wine is tied to Bibi Graetz's childhood memories on Giglio: the sight of winegrowers making their way to the vineyards with their donkeys inspired his interest in the local grape variety and old vines. Years of research and experimentation preceded the first vintage, released in 2016. For this 2020, the harvest was done by hand. The grapes are destemmed, then gently pressed with dry ice; a brief maceration, of less than an hour, accompanies the work. After pressing, the must is clarified by settling in stainless steel tanks and rests for about 48 hours at low temperature. The wine is then aged on its lees in oak barrels for twelve months.

The available notes do not specify the color of the wine: I prefer not to describe it at random. The nose is marked by wood, with aromas of dried pear and apple, then a touch of flint. On the palate, the body is creamy, broad and well structured; a slight chewiness balances with a clean acidity. The mineral character accompanies the whole, while the finish remains round. This profile gives a textured white, where the aging is perceptible, but where the fruit and vivacity keep their place.

At the table, to follow its texture

I would serve it with a dish that can accommodate its roundness and freshness, without trying to mask its oak notes: a simply prepared fish or a vegetable-based cuisine can offer a measured pairing. It is also a wine to open when you feel like exploring another facet of Tuscany, through Inzolia and the terraces of Giglio rather than the reds the region is so often associated with. Take the time to let it express itself in the glass: its body, its acidity and its dried fruit nuances make for a tasting that is both broad and precise.