Bibi Graetz Colore 2020

Colore 2020, Bibi Graetz's Tuscan trio

I recommend Colore 2020 for its rare blend of three local grape varieties and its expression that is both intense and fresh. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino make up a concentrated red, with aromas of red fruit, leather and spices. The palate, powerful yet harmonious, carries on into a lingering finish: a wine of character that keeps its momentum.

The Fiesole hills and Tuscan grape varieties

Classified IGT Toscana, Colore is made by Bibi Graetz at Azienda Agricola Testamatta, on the hills of Fiesole, facing Florence. The estate works indigenous grape varieties on soils described as exceptional in the information available. This setting, between Florentine landscape and hillside vineyards, places the wine in a traditional Tuscany, without reducing it to an expected profile.

The 2020 vintage blends 34% Sangiovese, 33% Canaiolo and 33% Colorino, from 60-year-old vines harvested by hand. Most of the fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperature. The wine is then aged in French oak barrels, then spends twelve months in bottle before release. The available sources differ on the length of barrel ageing — 22 or 24 months — but agree on this ageing in wood.

The tasting notes describe a concentrated red wine, carried by intense aromas of red fruit, to which leather and spicy nuances are added. The colour is not specified in the information consulted, so I prefer not to attribute any particular colour or hue to it. On the palate, the wine shows itself to be vibrant and powerful, yet also harmonious, with lovely freshness and a firm structure. The long, lingering finish extends the impression of intensity without erasing the balance. The published scores — 96/100 from Parker, 98/100 from Suckling and 98/100 from Decanter — also attest to the care given to this vintage.

At the table, a bottle for dishes with character

I would serve Colore 2020 with red meat or game, two pairings that match its structure and power. It can also accompany a platter of cured meats or aged cheeses, whose flavours will echo the notes of leather and spice. Keep it for a meal where you can take the time to savour it: its lingering finish invites you back to the glass. If you are looking for a Tuscan red built around local grape varieties, this vintage deserves a place at your table.