Bibi Graetz Testamatta 2020

Testamatta 2020, Bibi Graetz's Sangiovese

In the Testamatta 2020, the Sangiovese expresses itself with a strong personality: the fruit of cherries meets sweet spices, leather and tobacco, while firm tannins and pronounced acidity give relief to the tasting. I recommend this Super Tuscan for its balance between full body and freshness, and for its long, intensely aromatic finish.

Fiesole, old vines and Sangiovese

Bibi Graetz began producing wine in Tuscany in 2000. The estate's history is tied to a vineyard near the medieval castle of Vincigliata, acquired by his family in the 1960s. Today, the property covers about 50 hectares where mainly the region's indigenous grape varieties grow. Graetz, self-taught and inclined toward creativity, has become known for a singular approach to Tuscan wine.

For Testamatta, the grapes come from five vineyards in the commune of Fiesole. The vines are on average 80 years old and take root in soils rich in clay and marl. The wine is made from 100% Sangiovese: after fermentation in barrels with indigenous yeasts, it ages two years in French barrels, 10% of them new, then six months in bottle. This work accompanies the grape without erasing the character of the variety or of its origin.

To the eye, its robe is a luminous ruby red. The nose, full and seductive, opens on red cherry and black cherry, then reveals touches of sweet spices, leather and tobacco. On the palate, the wine is structured, complex and full, with a firm tannic framework supported by a very present acidity. This tension keeps the richness from weighing and extends the aromas into a persistent finish. Experts give it an average score of 96/100. You can drink it now, after letting it decant for half an hour, or keep it in the cellar for several years; the sheet indicates an aging potential of up to twenty years.

At the table, with roasted meat

I would serve it with grilled or roasted red meat: the wine's structure and firm tannins can match the depth of the dish, while its acidity adds lift to the pairing. This is a bottle to open for a meal where you take the time to follow its evolution in the glass, without rushing the tasting. If you want to discover a Tuscan Sangiovese with an ample, fruity profile marked by its aging, Testamatta 2020 deserves a place at your table.