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Hidden Tuscany

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What are the little-known treasures of Tuscany to discover?

To discover a less crowded Tuscany, head mainly to the south of the Maremma: Vitozza, the paths carved into the tuff around Pitigliano and Sovana, , then Massa Marittima. In the hamlet of San Quirico, the Vitozza site brings together more than 200 cavities, once used as dwellings or stables; it is reached by a trail from the village, about 2 km. It is not a developed museum: bring good shoes and don't expect to find many services on site.

Between Pitigliano and Sovana, the vie cave, ancient passages cut into the rock, are explored on foot. One route is about 10.2 km and takes nearly 4 hours ; the ground can be uneven, so avoid smooth-soled shoes. For a shorter outing in nature, the Maremma Park notably offers a forest walk of 1.8 km and a route of 5.6 km towards the mouth of the Ombrone. Access to the trails is paid and visiting conditions may vary depending on the season: check them before setting out.

Finally, stop in Massa Marittima, in the Metalliferous Hills, about 20 km from the coast. Its medieval center can be visited at a leisurely pace, and the mining history of the area is a change from the cypress landscapes often associated with Tuscany. For these rural stops, a car will make getting around much easier.

The vie cave have that secret passageway feel that I love: here Tuscany trades its well-groomed landscapes for a somewhat mysterious adventure.

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