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Where to taste wine in Maremma?

To taste wine in Maremma, first head for the estates around Scansano, the home of Morellino, a red made from sangiovese. You can also look towards Magliano in Toscana and the Grosseto coast: styles and landscapes change quickly in this vast region, so it's better to pick one area rather than chaining together far-flung cellars.

For a visit with tasting, Rocca di Montemassi offers packages starting from around 15 €, and Belguardo, near Grosseto, advertises visits of about 45 minutes to 1 h 30, starting from around 15 €. À Fattoria di Magliano, expect around 75 minutes and 45 € for a tasting of four wines; charcuterie and cheeses are extra. Prices may change: check them when booking.

Book in advance, especially on weekends and during the harvest, in September and October. Don't assume a winery welcomes walk-ins: some tastings are by reservation only. If you're driving, choose a single estate for the day or plan for a driver who won't taste; the roads between villages are rural and distances add up easily.

Morellino, I prefer it in the spirit of a long table rather than a rushed tasting: save some room for lunch, not just for the glasses.

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