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Where to eat a real Ciaffagnone in Tuscany?

To taste one ciaffagnone in its birthplace, head to Manciano, in the Maremma, and its Festa delle Cantine, usually held in September: the stands of the historic center's cellars serve it among local specialties. It's the option closest to the popular version, a thin flatbread made of flour, egg and water, often simply topped with pecorino. The dates change from year to year; check the program before making the trip, and expect crowds during the festival.

Outside the event, try La Filanda, or at the 8, via Marsala, in the center of Manciano. The ciaffagnone there appears rather reimagined, for example rolled and filled with Maremma beef, with pecorino: a good choice to discover the product, but it's not the plain flatbread served at a village festival. The dish may vary depending on the menu, so call before booking at +39 0564 625156. Autre piste, Il Poggio di Teo, near Manciano: its menu has offered a ciaffagnone "all'uccelletto" style, accompanied by beans, ricotta and sausage, priced at around 16 €. There too, confirm its presence on the menu. If you want to taste the most traditional one, favor the festival; at the restaurant, ask how it is prepared that day.

The ciaffagnone has a funny talent: even when facing well-loaded plates, it can steal the show without making a sound. Save a little room for a second one, just in case!

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