cinghiale

The cinghiale is the wild boar of Maremma, and you'll run into it everywhere, dead or alive. Alive, it roots through the undergrowth between Grosseto and Monte Argentario, and its fresh tracks on the hiking trails leave no doubt. Dead, it ends up as ragù, sausage, or skewers in most of the serious trattorie in the area. For you, the traveler, it's a concrete marker: its presence on the plate or in the landscape tells you whether you're truly in Maremma or just in a generic postcard. Try it in pappardelle, but know that its meat is strong and often fattier than domestic pork. Don't expect a tenderloin; it's an acquired taste of the terroir that divides people, and that's perfectly fine.