Braseros are the braziers of the Maremma: wood or charcoal fires lit in fields, vineyards and clearings to dry things, warm up, or simply keep watch through the cool nights of spring and autumn. Here the word refers less to an object than to a practice: when you spot blue smoke by a country road, it is almost always a brasero, and often a sign that a shepherd, a farmer or a mushroom picker is nearby. For the traveler, knowing this changes how you read the landscape. It keeps you from worrying about a wild fire and opens the possibility of a friendly encounter with the locals.
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