Sassicaia 2023

Sassicaia 2023, the Bordeaux boldness of Bolgheri

I recommend this Sassicaia for what it tells as much as for what it promises: in Bolgheri, a great Tuscan red has chosen to draw inspiration from Bordeaux grape varieties rather than follow local tradition. The 2023 vintage blends 85% cabernet sauvignon and 15% cabernet franc, then ages 24 months in French oak barrels.

Tenuta San Guido, a terroir that became an appellation

Tenuta San Guido is located in the Maremma, in Bolgheri, on the Tuscan coast. The story of Sassicaia begins with Marquis Mario Incisa della Rocchetta and his dream, in the 1920s, of creating an Italian "thoroughbred" wine according to Bordeaux ideals. Cabernet sauvignon, after several trials, established itself as the grape capable of giving the wine the sought-after bouquet. For this 2023, it is complemented by cabernet franc, in the stated proportions of 85% and 15%.

The vines occupy plots on the hill overlooking Bolgheri, on alluvial soils mixing silt, clay, sand and gravel, with a notable presence of iron and manganese. The estate also mentions cool nights and hot, dry summers, conditions to which the old vines, with their deep roots, are exposed. The vintage description specifies 24 months of aging in French oak barrels and a respectful approach to agriculture. It does not, however, provide detailed notes on the color, nose or palate: I prefer not to invent aromas or a texture for this Sassicaia 2023.

The history of this cuvée explains its importance without needing to embellish it. From 1948 to 1967, Sassicaia remained within a private circle, before being commercialized in 1968. It later helped make the Super Tuscans known, those wines that upended the region's habits, and today holds its own appellation, DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia. Here, the singularity is first of all that of a choice: making room for cabernet in a landscape where sangiovese and nebbiolo had until then dominated the red wines.

At the table, for a meal that takes its time

I would serve it at a dinner where the wine can be left to open quietly, with grilled beef, roast lamb or a matured cheese. These pairings are suggestions, not tasting notes attributed to the vintage: lacking a documented sensory profile, it is better to choose a generous table without pretending to guess its nuances. If you enjoy cabernet reds and Tuscan stories that stray from the well-trodden paths, this Sassicaia offers a fine opportunity to taste this boldness, at your own pace.